In short :
- Measure your dog properly before you buy: standing height, lying length, plus 5 to 10 cm of clearance.
- Match the crate type to the job, whether that’s home, car, or air travel, and pick material based on your dog’s chewing habits.
- If it goes in the car, secure it with straps, anchors, or a seatbelt-compatible carrier, and check it fits your boot first.
- Never use the crate as punishment, and don’t skimp on ventilation, latch security, or a removable tray you can actually clean.
- Do those five things and you’ll have a crate that lasts for years instead of gathering dust in the garage.
Last updated 2026-09-26
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A dog crate is one of the most useful pieces of equipment you can buy for your dog — and one of the easiest to get wrong. Used well, a crate becomes a safe, familiar den that makes house training easier, keeps your dog secure in the car, and gives everyone a calm place to settle. Used poorly, it becomes an expensive box that gathers dust in the garage.
The problem is that crates look simple. They are, after all, just a frame with a door. But size, material, ventilation, latch quality, cleaning, and how you introduce the crate all matter enormously — and the “best” crate for a Chihuahua in a flat is nothing like the right one for a Labrador who travels to the beach every weekend. Most buying mistakes come from choosing on price or appearance alone, before thinking about the dog, the space, and the job the crate actually needs to do.
Below are the five mistakes I see most often, what they cost you in practice, and how to sidestep them.
Mistake 1: Guessing the size instead of measuring your dog
What it looks like: Buying a crate that “looks about right” in the photo, or sizing up dramatically because you assume your puppy will grow into it.
Why it’s a problem: A crate that is too small stops your dog standing upright, turning around, and lying flat — which defeats the purpose and can make crate training stressful. A crate that is far too large gives a puppy room to toilet in one corner and sleep in another, which slows house training considerably. Oversized crates are also harder to fit in a car boot and take up more of your living room.
How to avoid it: Measure your dog while standing (floor to top of head, allowing for ears) and while lying stretched out (nose to tail base), then add roughly 5–10 cm to each figure. That is your minimum internal size. For a puppy, choose a crate with a divider panel so you can shrink the space now and expand it later — this is far cheaper than buying twice. Browse sizes and divider options in this dog crate selection before you commit.
Mistake 2: Choosing the wrong crate type for the job
What it looks like: Buying a soft fabric crate for a determined chewer, or a heavy wire crate for a dog who mostly travels.
Why it’s a problem: Each style has a genuine purpose. Wire crates offer the best ventilation and visibility and are ideal for home use. Plastic airline-style crates are sturdy, enclosed and often approved for air and ferry travel, but heavier. Soft-sided crates are light and fold flat — brilliant for hotel stays with a calm dog, risky with a dog who chews. Choosing the wrong one means either replacing it quickly or leaving it unused.
How to avoid it: Write down the two main ways you will use the crate — for example, “night-time sleeping at home” and “car travel to the vet”. If the answer is mainly travel, prioritise a crash-tested or airline-approved plastic crate. If it’s home, a wire crate with a removable tray usually wins. A well-stocked range of dog crates lets you compare wire, plastic and soft-sided options side by side.
Mistake 3: Not securing the crate in the car
What it looks like: A crate sliding around loose in the boot, or a dog travelling in a crate that is simply too large for the space and tips on corners.
Why it’s a problem: An unsecured crate is a projectile in an accident, and it can also injure your dog through sudden movement during normal braking. Loose crates also rattle, which makes nervous travellers more anxious, not less. In the UK, rule 57 of the Highway Code requires dogs to be suitably restrained so they cannot distract you or injure themselves.
How to avoid it: Measure your boot opening and floor before buying. Choose a crate that fits snugly, then secure it with straps, a boot liner with anchor points, or a purpose-made crate tie-down. For smaller dogs, a crash-tested carrier secured with a seatbelt is often the simplest solution. It’s worth checking crate and travel accessories that include securing straps rather than buying them separately later.
Mistake 4: Treating the crate as punishment or confinement
What it looks like: Sending the dog to the crate after an accident, or shutting the door for hours on the first day.
Why it’s a problem: A crate only works as a den if your dog chooses it willingly. If the crate is associated with being banished, you get whining, drooling, and a dog who resists going in — which usually leads owners to give up on the crate entirely and lose all its benefits.
How to avoid it: Build the association slowly. Feed meals inside the crate with the door open, toss treats in during the day, and only close the door for a few seconds at first, extending gradually. Never use the crate as a telling-off space. Add a comfortable, washable mat and a chew toy so the crate feels like a good place to be — a quick look at crate bedding and comfort accessories will give you plenty of options. Puppies generally need a toilet break roughly every hour or two at first, so plan around that rather than expecting long stretches.
Mistake 5: Overlooking build quality, ventilation and cleaning
What it looks like: Buying the cheapest crate available and discovering the latches bend, the tray cracks, or the coating starts flaking within months.
Why it’s a problem: Cheap crates often have thin wire that flexes, latches that a clever dog can nudge open, and sharp edges at the joins. Trays that don’t slide out fully make cleaning a chore, and poor ventilation turns a warm car journey into an uncomfortable one. These are the details that decide whether a crate lasts two months or ten years.
How to avoid it: Look for a slide-out tray, at least two doors for flexibility, rounded edges, and a latch system with a secure secondary lock. Check that the bars are close enough together that a paw or muzzle can’t pass through, and that the finish is non-toxic. If you have a strong chewer, favour reinforced or heavier-gauge models. Reading reviews that mention longevity — not just arrival condition — is the fastest way to separate the solid options from the flimsy ones.
Bonus: Pre-purchase checklist
- Measured size: Standing height and lying length recorded, plus 5–10 cm clearance.
- Divider panel: Essential if you have a puppy.
- Purpose: Home, car, air travel, or a mix — decided before you shop.
- Material: Wire, plastic, or soft-sided, matched to your dog’s chewing habits.
- Doors: Front only, or front and side for easier access in tight spaces.
- Tray: Removable and easy to wipe or hose down.
- Latch security: Secondary locking point, no gaps a nose can push through.
- Boot fit: Crate dimensions checked against your car’s boot opening and floor.
- Securing method: Straps, anchors, or a seatbelt-compatible carrier included or budgeted for.
- Comfort add-ons: Washable mat, chew toy, and a light cover for a den-like feel.
Conclusion
A dog crate is not a cage and it is not a shortcut — it’s a tool, and like any tool it works beautifully when it’s the right one for the job. Get the size right, match the type to how you’ll actually use it, secure it properly in the car, introduce it patiently, and choose build quality over the lowest price. Do those five things and you’ll have a crate that serves your dog for years, at home and on the road.
Take ten minutes with a tape measure and the checklist above before you order. It’s the cheapest upgrade you’ll ever make to your dog’s setup — and the one that saves you the most hassle later.
Written by our editorial team, home specialists since 2015. Learn more.
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