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In short:
- Measure your dog properly before you buy a crate: standing height, lying length, plus 5 to 10 cm of clearance.
- Match the crate type to the job — home, car, or air travel — and pick the material based on your dog’s chewing habits.
- If the crate goes in the car, secure it with straps, anchors, or a seatbelt-compatible carrier, and check it fits your boot first.
- Never use the crate as punishment, and don’t skimp on ventilation, latch security, or a removable tray you can actually clean.
- Do those five things and you’ll have a crate that lasts for years instead of gathering dust in the garage.
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A crate is one of the most useful pieces of equipment you can buy for your dog — and one of the easiest to get wrong. Used well, a crate becomes a safe, familiar den that makes house training easier, keeps your dog secure in the car, and gives everyone a calm place to settle. Used poorly, it becomes an expensive box that gathers dust in the garage.
The problem is that crates look simple. They are, after all, just a frame with a door. But size, material, ventilation, latch quality, cleaning, and how you introduce the crate all matter enormously — and the “best” crate for a Chihuahua in a flat is nothing like the right one for a Labrador who travels to the beach every weekend. Most buying mistakes come from choosing on price or appearance alone, before thinking about the dog, the space, and the job the crate actually needs to do.
Below are the five mistakes I see most often, what they cost you in practice, and how to sidestep them.
Mistake 1: Guessing the size instead of measuring your dog
What it looks like: Buying a crate that “looks about right” in the photo, or sizing up dramatically because you assume your puppy will grow into it.
Why it’s a problem: A crate that is too small stops your dog standing upright, turning around, and lying flat — which defeats the purpose and can make crate training stressful. A crate that is far too large gives a puppy room to toilet in one corner and sleep in another, which slows house training considerably. Oversized crates are also harder to fit in a car boot and take up more of your living room.
How to avoid it: Measure your dog while standing (floor to top of head, allowing for ears) and while lying stretched out (nose to tail base), then add roughly 5–10 cm to each figure. That is your minimum internal size. For a puppy, choose a crate with a divider panel so you can shrink the space now and expand it later — this is far cheaper than buying twice. Browse sizes and divider options in this guide to the best dog crates before you commit.
Mistake 2: Choosing the wrong crate type for the job
What it looks like: Buying a soft fabric crate for a determined chewer, or a heavy wire crate for a dog who mostly travels.
Why it’s a problem: Each style has a genuine purpose. Wire crates offer the best ventilation and visibility and are ideal for home use. Plastic airline-style crates are sturdy, enclosed and often approved for air and ferry travel, but heavier. Soft-sided crates are light and fold flat — brilliant for hotel stays with a calm dog, risky with a dog who chews. Choosing the wrong one means either replacing it quickly or leaving it unused.
How to avoid it: Write down the two main ways you will use the crate — for example, “night-time sleeping at home” and “car travel to the vet”. If the answer is mainly travel, prioritise a crash-tested or airline-approved plastic crate. If it’s home, a wire crate with a removable tray usually wins. A well-stocked buying guide lets you compare wire, plastic and soft-sided options side by side.
Mistake 3: Not securing the crate in the car
What it looks like: A crate sliding around loose in the boot, or a dog travelling in a crate that is simply too large for the space and tips on corners.
Why it’s a problem: An unsecured crate is a projectile in an accident, and it can also injure your dog through sudden movement during normal braking. Loose crates also rattle, which makes nervous travellers more anxious, not less. In the UK, rule 57 of the Highway Code requires dogs to be suitably restrained so they cannot distract you or injure themselves.
How to avoid it: Measure your boot opening and floor before buying. Choose a crate that fits snugly, then secure it with straps, a boot liner with anchor points, or a purpose-made crate tie-down. For smaller dogs, a crash-tested carrier secured with a seatbelt is often the simplest solution. It’s worth checking crate options that include securing straps rather than buying them separately later.
Mistake 4: Treating the crate as punishment or confinement
What it looks like: Sending the dog to the crate after an accident, or shutting the door for hours on the first day.
Why it’s a problem: A crate only works as a den if your dog chooses it willingly. If the crate is associated with being banished, you get whining, drooling, and a dog who resists going in — which usually leads owners to give up on the crate entirely and lose all its benefits.
How to avoid it: Build the association slowly. Feed meals inside the crate with the door open, toss treats in during the day, and only close the door for a few seconds at first, extending gradually. Never use the crate as a telling-off space. Add a comfortable, washable mat and a chew toy so the crate feels like a good place to be — a quick look at this selection will give you plenty of options. Puppies generally need a toilet break roughly every hour or two at first, so plan around that rather than expecting long stretches.
Mistake 5: Overlooking build quality, ventilation and cleaning
What it looks like: Buying the cheapest crate available and discovering the latches bend, the tray cracks, or the coating starts flaking within months.
Why it’s a problem: Cheap crates often have thin wire that flexes, latches that a clever dog can nudge open, and sharp edges at the joins. Trays that don’t slide out fully make cleaning a chore, and poor ventilation turns a warm car journey into an uncomfortable one. These are the details that decide whether a crate lasts two months or ten years.
How to avoid it: Look for a slide-out tray, at least two doors for flexibility, rounded edges, and a latch system with a secure secondary lock. Check that the bars are close enough together that a paw or muzzle can’t pass through, and that the finish is non-toxic. If you have a strong chewer, avoid soft-sided crates altogether and choose a heavy-gauge wire or plastic model instead. A removable, easy-to-wipe tray matters more than most buyers expect: it’s the difference between a two-minute clean and a twenty-minute scrubbing session.
What “best material” actually means in practice
There is no single best material — there is only the best material for your dog and your routine. Wire is the default for home use because it breathes, lets your dog see out, and folds flat for storage. Plastic is the default for travel because it is enclosed, easy to wipe down, and often accepted by airlines and ferries. Soft-sided fabric is the default for occasional, calm travel because it is light and packs away small.
If you are unsure, ask yourself three questions. Does my dog chew destructively? If yes, skip fabric. Does the crate need to leave the house regularly? If yes, weight and foldability matter more than you think. Will the crate sit in a living space? If yes, appearance and footprint become legitimate criteria rather than vanity.
| Material | Best for | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|
| Wire | Home use, house training, ventilation | Thin gauge flexes; check latch strength |
| Plastic | Car and air travel, enclosed den feel | Heavier; less airflow in hot weather |
| Soft-sided fabric | Occasional travel with a calm dog | Not chew-resistant; zips can fail |
A real-life example: the Friday-night dilemma
Picture a household with a two-year-old medium-sized dog, a compact car, and a weekly trip to visit family two hours away. The dog sleeps in a wire crate at home and travels loose on the back seat. Everything seems fine until a hard brake on the motorway sends the dog sliding into the back of the front seats.
Nothing dramatic happens, but the owner starts thinking. The wire crate at home is too tall to fit under the parcel shelf, so it can’t simply be moved into the boot. A soft-sided crate would fit, but this particular dog has already chewed through two beds, so fabric is a gamble. The practical answer is a plastic travel crate sized to the boot floor, secured with a strap to the anchor points, plus a washable mat inside. At home, the wire crate stays where it is.
What makes this example useful is the sequence of decisions. First, the job was identified: safe transport, not sleeping. Second, the constraint was identified: boot height and a chewer. Third, the material followed from those two facts rather than from a preference. Owners who start with “which crate is best” tend to buy twice. Owners who start with “what does this crate need to do” usually buy once.
The same logic applies to a flat-dwelling owner with a small dog and no car. There, the crate is a den and a house-training tool, so ventilation, a removable tray, and a footprint that fits beside a sofa matter far more than crash testing or airline approval. Same question, completely different answer.
Questions fréquentes
Is a wire crate or a plastic crate better for a puppy?
For most puppies, a wire crate with a divider panel is the more flexible choice. The divider lets you shrink the space to match your puppy’s current size, which supports house training, and you expand it as the dog grows. Wire also offers better airflow and visibility, which helps a puppy settle because it can see the room. A plastic crate becomes the better option once travel is a regular part of the routine.
Can a dog sleep in a crate every night?
Yes, and many dogs prefer it. A crate used as a den, with the door closed overnight, gives a dog a predictable, secure sleeping space. The key is that the crate is introduced positively and that the dog gets enough exercise, toilet breaks, and time out of the crate during the day. A crate should be a bedroom, not a full-time residence.
How do I stop my dog chewing the crate tray?
Chewing usually points to boredom, anxiety, or a tray that moves or rattles. Make sure the dog has had enough physical and mental exercise before going in, and provide an appropriate chew item inside. If the tray is the target, check that it sits flush and doesn’t shift when the dog moves. In persistent cases, a crate with a metal or reinforced tray base removes the temptation entirely.
Does crate material affect how easy it is to clean?
Considerably. Plastic crates wipe down quickly and contain accidents well, which makes them popular for puppies and travel. Wire crates rely on their slide-out tray, so a tray that pulls out fully and has a raised lip is worth prioritising. Fabric crates are the hardest to clean thoroughly because the material absorbs moisture and odour, even when the cover is removable.
Is it safe to leave a dog in a crate while I’m at work?
It depends on the dog’s age and how long you’re away. Puppies and senior dogs cannot comfortably hold their bladder for a full working day, and no dog should be crated for extended periods without a break, water, and exercise. For adult dogs, a crate is best used for shorter, predictable stretches, with a dog walker or a secure indoor space covering the rest of the day.
What size crate should I buy for a dog that is still growing?
Buy for the adult size you expect, then use a divider to reduce the internal space to your dog’s current measurements. This avoids buying a second crate later while still preventing the puppy from toileting in one corner and sleeping in another. If you’re unsure of the adult size, ask your vet or breeder for a realistic estimate rather than guessing from the puppy’s paws.
The bottom line
Choosing the best crate material comes down to three things: your dog’s size and chewing habits, where the crate will live, and what job it needs to do. Measure first, decide on the job second, and let the material follow. Wire for home, plastic for travel, fabric only for calm dogs on occasional trips.
Then check the details that separate a crate that lasts from one that doesn’t: a slide-out tray, secure latches, rounded edges, adequate ventilation, and bar spacing that keeps paws and muzzles safe. Introduce the crate slowly, never use it as punishment, and keep it associated with good things. Do that, and the crate becomes what it should be — a place your dog chooses to go, not a place it dreads.
If you’re ready to compare specific models, start with this guide to the best dog crates and match the options against the measurements and priorities you’ve just worked out.
Put it into practice : How do I keep my dog’s bowl from sliding on tile floors?
Sources
- UK Government — The Highway Code, Rule 57 (dogs in vehicles)
- RSPCA — advice on dog crates and crate training
- The Kennel Club — guidance on crate training and dog travel
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